Frequently Asked Questions

The easiest way is to book a time through my calendar:

👉 Calendly Link for Rhett’s Frets

Once you book, you’ll get the address and all the details you need.

I work by appointment so I can give each guitar the time it needs and make sure I’m actually here when you come by.

If you’re not sure what to book, feel free to reach out—I’m happy to point you in the right direction.

I’m generally available Tuesday through Saturday, 9 AM to 7 PM.

Because I work from home, I do have some flexibility outside those hours when needed—but the best way to find a time that works is to schedule through my calendar.

👉Book a consultation with me here.

That way I can make sure I’m available and give your guitar the attention it needs.

Because space is limited, I ask that you bring no more than 2 guitars per appointment.

If you’ve got more than that, we can always split it into multiple visits or figure out a plan

Typically, 1-3 weeks. It really depends on the type of work and what I’ve got in the shop at the time.

Some things—like a restring or small adjustment—can be done pretty quickly. Bigger jobs like fretwork or repairs take more time to do right.

I’ll always give you my best estimate upfront, but I don’t like to rush work just to hit a date. I’d rather it come back playing right.

Your guitar isn’t the only one here, so there’s usually a bit of a queue—but I’ll keep you updated if anything changes along the way.

If you’re on a tighter timeline, I do offer a priority/rush option when I’m able. And if you know you’ll need something back quickly, it’s always best to get on the calendar as soon as you can.

Most people don’t know what a “setup” is, and that’s okay—they just know their guitar doesn’t feel right. That’s usually the sign.

A guitar might need a setup if you notice things like:

• It’s harder to play than it used to be
• Strings feel too high or too stiff
• You’re getting buzzing or dead notes
• It won’t stay in tune very well
• Chords sound off, especially higher up the neck

Sometimes it’s gradual, so you don’t notice it until you pick up a different guitar and go, “oh… this feels way better.”

A lot of this comes down to small shifts in the neck and wood from humidity, temperature, or just time. Totally normal.

If your guitar feels good, plays easily, and sounds in tune—then you probably don’t need anything. I’m not here to sell you work you don’t need.

But if something feels off, even if you can’t explain it, that’s usually worth taking a look at. Worst case, I’ll tell you it’s fine.

A setup is basically getting the guitar to play comfortably, stay in tune, and sound right across the neck.

Here’s what that usually involves:

• Neck adjustment (truss rod)Making sure the neck has the right amount of relief—not too bowed, not too flat.
• Action adjustment Setting the string height so it feels good to play without buzzing.
• Nut height check Making sure the strings sit at the right height at the nut (this has a big impact on tuning and feel, especially in the first few frets).
• Intonation Adjusting things so the guitar plays in tune all the way up the neck, not just on open strings.
• Pickup height (for electrics) Balancing output and tone so nothing sounds too weak or too harsh.
• Hardware check Tightening anything loose and making sure everything is functioning like it should.
• Fresh strings + basic clean New strings (if needed) and a quick clean/polish to get it feeling good in your hands.

Every guitar is a little different, so the exact process can vary. Some need very little, some need more attention.

The goal isn’t to “do a list of steps”—it’s to get the guitar feeling right and responding the way it should.

I get this one a lot—and I get why. A low, fast-feeling guitar is awesome to play.

The honest answer is: there’s always a bit of a tradeoff.

The lower the strings go, the less room they have to vibrate cleanly. At a certain point, some amount of buzz just becomes part of the deal. The goal isn’t to eliminate it completely—it’s to keep it under control so it doesn’t come through the amp or get in the way of your playing.

A good setup is about finding that balance:

• As low as possible
• As clean as possible
• Without choking notes or killing sustain

That balance is a little different for everyone. Some players are totally fine with a bit of buzz if it feels fast and easy. Others want it cleaner and don’t mind higher action.

I’ll usually ask a few questions about how you play, and then dial it in to that. If you want it really low, we can absolutely push it in that direction—I just want to make sure it still works for you and not against you.

And if we go too far, we can always bring it back a touch. It’s not a one-shot thing—it’s about finding the sweet spot.

Yeah—within reason, most guitars can handle different string gauges just fine. It mostly comes down to feel and what you’re after.

• Heavier strings tend to feel tighter, can give you a bit more volume and fullness, and usually stay in tune a little better.
• Lighter strings are easier to play, bend, and feel “faster” under the fingers.

The important thing to know is that most string gauge changes really should be set up for that specific gauge if you want the guitar to play its best.

Changing string gauge changes the tension on the neck, and the bridge especially on acoustics which affects:

• Neck relief
• Action
• Intonation
• Sometimes even how the strings sit in the nut

So while you can throw on a different gauge and play it, it often won’t feel quite right until it’s been adjusted for that set.

If you go too far in either direction, you can also run into issues:

• Too heavy → stiff feel, possible neck movement, nut slots might bind
• Too light → floppy feel, more buzzing, tuning instability

If you’re curious about trying something different, that’s totally fine—I just recommend planning to have it dialed in for that gauge so you actually get the benefit of the change instead of fighting it.

Most of the time, yes.

That kind of noise usually comes from a few common things:

• Single-coil pickups (they naturally hum a bit)
• Grounding or shielding issues inside the guitar
• Loose or worn-out wiring/jacks
• External noise (lights, outlets, bad cables, etc.)

The first step is figuring out where the noise is coming from—because not all hum is actually a problem with the guitar.

For example:

• If the noise changes when you turn or move → that’s often normal single-coil hum
• If it crackles when you touch the cable or knobs → that’s usually fixable hardware
• If it’s constant and loud no matter what → that’s worth digging into

What can be fixed?

Things like:

• Bad solder joints
• Faulty output jacks
• Noisy pots
• Poor grounding or shielding

Those are all pretty straightforward fixes.

What can’t really be “fixed”?

Some level of hum—especially with single-coil pickups—is just part of how they work. That’s the tradeoff for that tone.

If you’re not sure what you’re hearing, bring it by. I can usually tell pretty quickly whether it’s something that needs fixing or just normal behavior.

This is basically refreshing your frets so the guitar can play cleanly and comfortably again.

Over time, frets wear down—usually from strings pressing into the same spots over and over. That wear creates uneven areas, which can cause buzzing, dead notes, or notes that choke out when you bend.

A fret level, crown, and polish is a 3-step process to fix that:

• Level All the frets are made perfectly even with each other. This is what gets rid of buzzing caused by uneven wear.
• Crown After leveling, the frets get reshaped so they’re rounded again (not flat on top). This helps with accurate intonation and a clean feel.
• Polish The frets are smoothed and polished so bends feel slick and there’s less friction on the strings.

How do I know if I need one?

A few common signs:

• Buzzing that doesn’t go away with a normal setup
• Notes that “choke out” when bending
• Dead spots on the neck
• Visible flat spots or grooves in the frets
• The guitar just won’t play clean no matter how it’s adjusted

Sometimes people come in thinking they need a setup, but the frets are the real issue.

If your frets are still in good shape, you don’t need this. But if they’re worn unevenly, no amount of setup work will fully fix it—this is what gets things back to a solid foundation again.

A fret level only works if there’s still enough good fret material left to work with.

When I do a level, I’m taking a small amount off the tops of the frets to make them even again. That means every level makes the frets a little lower. At a certain point, there’s just not enough height left to do that properly.

A refret is when all the frets are replaced with new ones, which gives you a fresh start.

You might need a refret if:

• The frets are already too low to level again
• There’s deep wear or grooves that would require taking too much material off
• The guitar has inconsistent areas (like kick-up at the end of the fretboard) that can’t be corrected just by leveling
• You want a different fret size or feel

That last one matters more than people think.

Why taller frets are often better

Most modern players tend to prefer slightly taller frets because:

• They’re more accurate (you’re not dragging your finger into the fretboard as much)
• They make bending feel easier and smoother
• They give you a little more control with a lighter touch

Low frets can feel nice for some styles, but once they get too low, they can start to feel stiff and less precise.

A good way to think about it:

• Fret level = maintenance (if there’s enough fret left)
• Refret = reset (when the frets are worn out or holding the guitar back)

If a level will get you there, I’ll always recommend that first. But if the frets are past that point, a refret is what actually brings the guitar back to life.

I do—within reason.

I’m comfortable handling certain types of work on instruments like mandolins and banjos, but I don’t take on everything. If it’s outside my wheelhouse or I feel like someone else would be a better fit, I’ll point you in the right direction.

The guitar tech and luthier community here in Middle Tennessee is pretty collaborative. We all learn from each other, and it makes everyone better at what they do. It also means that if something isn’t a good fit for me, there’s usually someone nearby who is the right person for the job.

At the end of the day, I care more about the instrument being worked on correctly than I do about taking on every job. Sometimes that means sending you to someone else—and I’m totally fine with that.